Wednesday, November 11, 2015

What is my best Chess Engine Parameter

Playing over the chess server Infinity is a big challenge , People are really well prepared there and maximizing my engine parameter shall be the key to unlock many victory



So according to some research I did ,this is what I have found

-Log dir
-max cpus
-random
-main process priority
-child process priority
-use large pages
-multi pv


-Log dir
What directory to write the logs in.

-max cpus
How many CPUs to use during analysis and game play.  This number should be less than or equal to the number of CPUs on your computer.

-random
Don't remember

-main process priority
The Rybka chess engine has a main server that launches helper child processes.  The priority of the process controls how many time slices the process will get.  There is a single main process.  The higher the number the more compute power the process will get.  However, if you raise the priority of the processes too high, your computer will become unresponsive when the games are being played, especially if max cpus is set equal to your computer's resources.

-child process priority
The Rybka chess engine spawns child processes to help in the search.  The priority of these processes controls how many time slices the processes will get.  For all of these processes, I would not recommend elevating the priority above normal.

-use large pages
Large pages is a fiddly setting that will give your engine a small boost in compute power.  You have to run the processes with administrator rights and memory fragmentation makes this setting somewhat unreliable.  So use with care and read threads that talk about how to use it.

-multi pv 
Multi-pv is NOT good for game play.  It is sometimes useful for analysis of chess positions.  The idea of multi pv is that it has the chess engine study other lines besides the main line.  The problem with multi pv is that it slows down the engine a lot.



http://rybkaforum.net/cgi-bin/rybkaforum/topic_show.pl?tid=27663



Tactical Mode (checkbox)
When Tactical Mode is active, Houdini modifies its search process and uses some clever tricks to focus on tactical solutions in the root position. In Tactical Mode Houdini becomes a very skilled tactical problem solver. Below some results for two popular tactical test suites with Houdini running at 30 seconds per position using 2 threads on a Core i5-750 with 512 MB hash.

1) Arasan 14 Tactical Suite, comprising 197 medium to hard positions
- Houdini 1.5a solves 148 positions, total solution time 34 minutes.
- Houdini 2 solves 155 positions, total solution time 35 minutes.
- Houdini 4 Tactical solves 177 positions, total solution time 22 minutes.

2) Die Tactical Suite, comprising 100 hard positions
- Houdini 1.5a solves 29 positions, total solution time 40 minutes.
- Houdini 2 solves 33 positions, total solution time 39 minutes.
- Houdini 4 Tactical solves 56 positions, total solution time 30 minutes.

Note that the focus on tactical moves will reduce the playing strength of the engine, the Tactical Mode is probably about 30 Elo weaker than the normal playing mode.

One can compare the Tactical Mode to what a human player does when he/she tries to solve a test position in a chess magazine or website. He/she will scan for tactical, forcing moves, threats, sacrifices etc. That way a lot more tactical solutions can be found than what the player would actually see and decide to play over the board, during a normal game. The "this is a test position" message changes the search strategy.
Houdini's Tactical Mode works exactly the same, very human-like: it will spend a lot more time looking for tactical moves, threats etc. In most positions this doesn't provide any benefit - most of the time there is no tactical solution available and all the focus on tactics is just wasted. But in test positions (selected because there IS a tactical solution) it works extremely well.

Strength
Limit strength from 0 (beginner) to 100 (full strength).
Default is 100 (full strength).

The strength reduction is mostly based on a combination of two techniques:
Limiting the number of positions searched - this reduces mostly the tactical strength of the engine;
Purposely picking a move the engine knows is not optimal - this reduces mostly the positional strength of the engine.
The combination of the two produces a game with both tactical and strategic (positional) flaws.

The following table shows the estimated Elo of Houdini 2 at reduced Strength levels. It is based on the feed-back of several users:

Strength  0 => 1200 Elo
Strength 10 => 1500 Elo
Strength 20 => 1800 Elo
Strength 30 => 2000 Elo
Strength 50 => 2300 Elo

This table is very approximate - we welcome any feedback from rated players that could improve these values.
What is the highest strength level that you can consistently beat?

UCI_Elo
UCI-protocol compliant version of Strength parameter.
Default 3000, min 1200, max 3000.

Internally the UCI_Elo value will be converted to a Strength value according to the table given above.
The UCI_Elo feature is controlled by the chess GUI, and usually doesn't appear in the configuration window.

UCI_LimitStrength (checkbox)
Activate the strength limit specified in the UCI_Elo parameter.
This feature is controlled by the chess GUI, and usually doesn't appear in the configuration window.

MultiPV
Number of principal variations shown.
Default 1, min 1, max 32.
The MultiPV feature is controlled by the chess GUI, and usually doesn't appear in the configuration window.

MultiPV_cp
Limit the multi-PV analysis to moves within a range of the best move.
Default 0, min 0, max 999.
Values are in centipawn. Because of contempt and evaluation corrections in different stages of the game, this value is only approximate.
A value of 0 means that this parameter will not be taken into account.

Ponder (checkbox)
Have the engine think during its opponent's time.
The Ponder feature (sometimes called "Permanent Brain") is controlled by the chess GUI, and usually doesn't appear in the configuration window.

Contempt
Level of contempt to avoid draws in game play.
Default 1, min 0 (none), max 2 (aggressive).

The notion of "contempt" implies that Houdini will try to avoid draws by evaluating its own position slightly too optimistically. The Contempt level can be chosen between 0 (none) and 2 (aggressive), the default value of 1 should be a good compromise in most situations.

0 = No Contempt
The evaluations are accurate and identical for both sides. This is recommended for position analysis in which you analyze alternatively for White and Black. The starting position evaluates as approx. +0.15.

1 = Default Contempt
Contempt 1 is primarily based on piece value imbalance, Houdini will value its own pieces higher than the opponent pieces, so will only exchange them if there’s a clear positional advantage in doing so.
This also means that the score is evaluated optimistically for the side to move (at most 0.15 pawn). For example, the starting position evaluates as approx. +0.30 when analyzing for White and +0.00 when viewed from Black. This is only recommended for position analysis if you always analyze for the same side.

2 = Aggressive
Contempt 2 adds some king safety imbalance, leading to a more attacking style.

The contempt settings are fairly mild and have little impact on the objective strength of the engine. It’s hard to say which will give the best results against a given opponent, it may depend on the style and strength of the opponent. One could envisage more pronounced contempt but this would start to degrade the engine’s objective strength.

By default the contempt is only activated during game play, not during infinite analysis. If you enable the Analysis Contempt checkbox, Houdini will also take into account the contempt for infinite analysis.

Analysis Contempt (checkbox)
Activate Contempt for position analysis.

It is usually not recommended to activate the contempt for analyzing positions.
When contempt is active, the score of the analysis will be optimistic (over-evaluated) for the side that is to move. That means that if you use Analysis Contempt the evaluations will change depending on whether White or Black has the move. For example, from the start position, when you do an analysis with Analysis Contempt (and Contempt value 1) you could find a best move e2-e4 scoring about +0.3 for White. If you then play e2-e4 and analyze for Black you could find a score close to +0.0. If you do the same without Analysis Contempt, you should find a consistent +0.15 score whether it’s White or Black to move.

FiftyMoveDistance
The number of moves after which the 50-move rule will kick in.
Default 50, min 5, max 50.

This setting defines the number of moves after which the 50-move rule will kick in - the default value is 50, i.e. the official 50-moves rule.
Setting this option in the range of 10 to 15 moves can be useful to analyse more correctly blockade or fortress positions:
- Closed positions in which no progress can be made without some sort of sacrifice (blockade);
- End games with a material advantage that is insufficient for winning (fortress).

By setting FiftyMoveDistance to 15, you're telling the engine that if it cannot make any progress in the next 15 moves, the game is a draw. It's a reasonably generic way to decide whether a material advantage can be converted or not.

Mate Search
Maximum search depth for mate search.
Default 0, min 0, max 99.
If set, this option will usually speed-up a mate search.
If you know that a position is "mate in X", you can use X or a value slightly larger than X in the Mate Search option. This will prevent Houdini from going too deep in variations that don't lead to mate in the required number of moves.

UCI_Chess960 (checkbox)
Activate Fischer Random Chess a.k.a. Chess960 games.

retrieved from url
http://www.cruxis.com/chess/manual/index.html?game_play.htm

Reactivate a missing or offline dynamic disk

I had added a second hard driver few days ago and I just wanna share here how I have fixed it using Microsoft recommendation. it work fine with me using the first recomendation



Updated: January 21, 2005
Applies To: Windows Server 2003, Windows Server 2003 R2, Windows Server 2003 with SP1, Windows Server 2003 with SP2

To reactivate a missing or offline dynamic disk


Using the Windows interface

  1. Open Computer Management (Local).
  2. In the console tree, click Computer Management (Local), click Storage, and then click Disk Management.
  3. Right-click the disk marked Missing or Offline, and then click Reactivate Disk. (or click Online)

    The disk should be marked Online after the disk is reactivated.
Notes
  • To perform this procedure on a local computer, you must be a member of the Backup Operators group or Administrators group on the local computer, or you must have been delegated the appropriate authority. To perform this procedure remotely, you must be a member of the Backup Operators group or Administrators group on the remote computer. If the computer is joined to a domain, members of the Domain Admins group might be able to perform this procedure. As a security best practice, consider using Run as to perform this procedure. For more information, see Default local groupsDefault groups, and Using Run as.
  • To open Computer Management, click Start, click Control Panel, double-click Administrative Tools, and then double-click Computer Management.
  • A dynamic disk may become Missing when it is corrupted, powered down, or disconnected.
  • A dynamic disk may become Offline if it is corrupted or intermittently unavailable. A dynamic disk may also become Offline if you attempt to import a foreign (dynamic) disk and the import fails. An error icon appears on the Offline disk. Only dynamic disks display theMissing or Offline status.
  • Only dynamic disks can be reactivated.

Using a command line

  1. Open Command Prompt.
  2. Type:

    diskpart
  3. At the DISKPART prompt, type:

    list disk

    Make note of the disk number of the missing or offline disk that you want to bring online. Missing disks are numbered M0, M1, M2, etc. and offline disks are numbered 0, 1, 2, etc.
  4. At the DISKPART prompt, type:

    select diskn
  5. At the DISKPART prompt, type:

    online

 

ValueDescription
list disk
Displays a list of disks and information about them, such as their size, amount of available free space, whether the disk is a basic or dynamic disk, and whether the disk uses the master boot record (MBR) or GUID partition table (GPT) partition style. The disk marked with an asterisk (*) has focus.
select disk n
Sets the focus to the specified disk, where n is the disk number.
online
Brings an offline disk or volume with focus online.
Notes
  • To perform this procedure on a local computer, you must be a member of the Backup Operators group, Administrators group, or you must have been delegated the appropriate authority. If the computer is joined to a domain, members of the Domain Admins group might be able to perform this procedure. As a security best practice, consider using Run as to perform this procedure. For more information, see Default local groupsDefault groups, and Using Run as.
  • To open a command prompt, click Start, point to All programs, point to Accessories, and then click Command prompt.
  • A dynamic disk may become Missing when it is corrupted, powered down, or disconnected.
  • A dynamic disk may become Offline if it is corrupted or intermittently unavailable. A dynamic disk may also become Offline if you attempt to import a foreign (dynamic) disk and the import fails. Only dynamic disks display the Offline status.
  • Only dynamic disks can be reactivated.
  • For more information about DiskPart, see Related Topics.

Information about functional differences

  • Your server might function differently based on the version and edition of the operating system that is installed, your account permissions, and your menu settings. For more information, see Viewing Help on the Web.

See Also

Sunday, November 8, 2015

How do I formate my hard drive after I see this message ''x:\windows\system32''

try methods below:


Method 1:
===============
1. Put the Windows 7 installation disc into the disc drive, and then start the computer.

2. Press a key when the message indicating "Press any key to boot from CD or DVD …". appears.

3. Select a language, a time, a currency, and a keyboard or another input method, and then click Next.

4. Click Repair your computer.

5. Click the operating system that you want to repair, and then click Next.

6. In the System Recovery Options dialog box, click Command Prompt.

7. Type sfc /scannow, and then press ENTER.


Method 2:
===============
1. Put the Windows Windows 7 installation disc in the disc drive, and then start the computer.

2. Press any key when the message indicating "Press any key to boot from CD or DVD …". appears.

3. Select a language, time, currency, and a keyboard or another input method. Then click Next.

4. Click Repair your computer.

5. Click the operating system that you want to repair, and then click Next.

6. In the System Recovery Options dialog box, click Command Prompt.

7. Type Bootrec /RebuildBcd, and then press ENTER.

Method 3:
===============
1. Put the Windows Windows 7 installation disc into the disc drive, and then start the computer.

2. Press a key when the message indicating "Press any key to boot from CD or DVD …". appears.

3. Select a language, a time, a currency, and a keyboard or another input method, and then click Next.

4. Click Repair your computer.

5. Click the operating system that you want to repair, and then click Next.

6. In the System Recovery Options dialog box, click Command Prompt.

7. Type BOOTREC /FIXMBR, and then press ENTER.

8. Type BOOTREC /FIXBOOT, and then press ENTER.

9. Type Drive:\boot\Bootsect.exe /NT60 All, and then press ENTER.



Note: In this command, Drive is the drive where the Windows 7 installation media is located.

more info at 
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/37305-63-windows-system32

What Google Knows About You?

Want To See A Sliver Of What Google Knows About You?



You can now download your entire Google search history.
Google just gave Chrome users a little feature with big implications: You can now download your search history. It might seem silly—and somewhat frightening—to download a massive file containing everything you have searched for since enabling the web history setting, but the list is an interesting peek into how Google sees you.
To download your search history, go to your Google account’s Web & Activity page, click the cog in the top right, and click "Download." Google will warn you with a pop-up not to download to a public computer and to set up two-stage verification—and if you don’t take the security of your search history as seriously as Google does, you haven’t been paying attention.

There are many things Google can do with your search history, from personalizing advertisements to combining many search histories to find patterns, which a political science professor did to discover that 3 million to 4 million people could not register to vote in 2012 due to sketchy voter registration restrictions. Google even tries to predict who you are based on your search history, though its guesses are often a bit off-base. Even if Google doesn't have a perfectly accurate demographic profile of you, it still has a good idea of your desires and habits.

Being able to download the raw output that gets fed into Google’s analytics may not sound like a fun Friday night. But at least it is there, part of Google's Takeout project, which launched in 2011 to let you download the personal data collected by Google services like Gmail and YouTube. Other services have similar raw activity dumps, VentureBeat points out, with Twitter letting you download your tweeting history and Facebook letting you download your profile history archive. While it can be fun to look at this data yourself, these archives should be a sobering reminder of how much personal information we share every time we use the Internet.
[via Fark]
[Photo: Flickr user Liz Mc]

7 Reasons You Should Quit Facebook in 2016

Why We're Getting Off Facebook in 2015
Credit: Justin Sullivan / Getty Images
Ten years ago Facebook was just cresting as the cool new social media site that helped you keep in touch with the people you didn’t actually like in high school. We fed it our thoughts and feelings, shared our meals and locations and our top ten movie lists, kept it up-to-date on our relationship status, political views, favorite links, and personal information — all in the name of staying connected, and all without a thought to our security. But with a decade of questions regarding how Facebook makes money now answered, and a general understanding of how sharing information online can be dangerous (while the platform constantly updates its security protocol), we continue to use it anyway, even though many of us are just checking in as ritual and have threatened our exit from Facebook for years.

Of course, screen time in moderation is, for the most part, perfectly acceptable, and social media can offer a few genuinely beneficial uses. But before you log in or tap that app on your smartphone again, here are a few reasons to quit Facebook in 2015.

It Wastes Your TimeIt's estimated that the average casual user (17 minutes per day on Facebook) who has been active on the site for 10 years has wasted upwards of 40 entire days of their lives scrolling and liking and commenting on pictures and posts. And more engaged users, who spend at least an hour a day on the site, have clocked 150 days feeding the Facebook beast during the same time. Think about how long you spend on the site each day, and what else could be a more productive use of your time.

Facebook Uses You to Sell Stuff...In 2012, the site manipulated posts from 689,000 accounts without consent in an experiment that examined whether or not it could affect your emotions by making a few edits on your page. The study was done, according to Facebook, to "improve our services and to make the content people see on Facebook as relevant and engaging as possible." Skeptics think it was really used to discover the monetary benefit of a Like. COO Sheryl Sandberg later apologized, adding that they "never meant to upset you."
RELATED: Three Simples Steps for Keeping Photos Out of Hackers' Hands

And Targets You with AdvertisementsOne time you wanted to buy a thing, and then you searched for that thing, and six months later Facebook is still reminding you that you should think about buying that thing, even if you already bought the thing. Yes, most sites do this thanks to embedded cookies, but only Facebook seamlessly posts these ads in your timeline with enough regularity that you can only assume your friend has an odd obsession with the latest Norelco razor.

It's Bad for Your HealthFacebook isn't just a harmless website dedicated to cataloging your vacations, poor wardrobe choices, and myopic thoughts on sporting events (which can both define or destroy relationships), it can actually do you harm. Studies hint that it can impact your immune system and inhibit the release of growth hormones, impair digestion and vision, limit thinking and kill creativity, and affect sleep patterns and happiness.

"Who Are These People, Anyway?"The average adult has 338 friends on Facebook and probably doesn't know more than 10 percent of them anymore, or at all. Many of them likely have new lives, some have new last names, new passions, new facial hair, and new humans they're now responsible for keeping alive (read: babies). These are not the friends you knew, and semi-casually keeping up with them is a waste of time that could be better spent with new, real friends. Or on Twitter.

RELATED: Why Apple Pay Will Take Over the World

"But I Don't Care About Privacy"Fair. That's your right. But the problem is that we're setting precedent for the future without yet understanding how it will affect the free and open Web, and simultaneously creating an internet that relies on you having a Facebook account to access sites that are not Facebook. As one of nearly 1.2 billion users to date, odds are decent that your account won't be hacked by someone with ill-will toward your family. That doesn't mean that permitting easy access to your information goes without consequence, both immediately and decades from now.

Nothing You Post Actually MattersVery few people care what you're doing, whom you're with, where you're eating, or what you just bought, and the people who do were probably right next to you when you did it. We all saw that funny Ice Bucket Challenge video, and if we didn’t see it, it's fine. We're all fine. You'll sleep well without knowing which childhood toys you owned are now worth a fortune, and you will absolutely "believe what happened next" on Upworthy, because someone took time to write about it. These articles only exist because you share them on Facebook, and you only share them because they exist. So, instead, just invite a friend over to talk about how much you both loved Save By the Bell. The internet can only take so much nostalgia.

If you're serious about quitting Facebook today, you can do it right now by clicking here.




Read more: http://www.mensjournal.com/gear/collection/why-were-getting-off-facebook-in-2015-20141231#ixzz3qvfHcH00
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Wednesday, November 4, 2015

How Much Torque is Enough?

Today I just bought a nice set of drill from the brand Makita; this was no my first drill I have own,I had a Makita many years ago and my job I need to handle drill to perform my job,my I neve went to training to really understand about what set position is good for wood ,masonry or metal,I just really i dont understand what really torque mean for my drill. But I am a kind a person that I  don't leave question with out answering; so i went deep reading the manual book and over the internet and this is what i have found for people who are on the same shoes size like me



Is Torque Important? The Ultimate Drill Torque Guide

Posted on 28. Feb, 2014 by  in Buying Guides
When you’re looking to buy a drill, torque is one of the very most confusing metrics to comprehend.
Every drill has a different amount of torque, and you know that you probably don’t need the drill with the most torque.  So that begs the big question:

How Much Torque is Enough?

Drill Torque
Photo Credit: konomike via Compfight cc
To start, for those of you working in wood, the torque setting of a drill really isn’t all that important.  This is for 2 reasons:
  1. Wood is soft.  Even the cheapest drills aren’t going to struggle driving screws or bits into it.
  2. Wood is variable. Since it’s not a manufactured product like metal, the density can be inconsistent throughout the material, making it near impossible to have a “perfect” torque setting.  And that’s okay!
To be honest, the amount of torque a drill has overall doesn’t matter too much when you pay attention to the other specifications and metrics put out by the drill manufacturer.
As I just mentioned, any drill can drill into wood and do a great job.  The need for higher torque comes in when needing to drive into metal and masonry, which really should require you to have either a impact drill or hammer drill,depending on the thickness.  These drills have the capability to power through these tough materials in ways a regular drill can only hope to!

How Do I Adjust the Torque on My Drill?

Though the total amount of torque a drill provides isn’t highly important, the adjustment of the torque can be very important when doing tasks such as driving screws into pre-threaded holes, and re-assembling pre-drilled wood pieces.
For tasks like these, putting too much power into the screw can either strip out the screw, or even worse, strip out the threads of the hole you’re driving in to.
Drill Torque Guide
Photo Credit: Let Ideas Compete via Compfight cc
The good news is that it’s really easy to adjust the torque on your drill, and that can make assembling these types of projects very easy and carefree.  Here’s how to do it:
  1. Locate the torque adjustment dial on the front of your drill, just behind the chuck.  You can see it in the picture to the right as the black dial with the yellow numbers.
  2. You’ll notice numbers going from high to low, and also a symbol of a drill bit – that means maximum torque for drilling!
  3. You can adjust your torque output by spinning this dial.  The lower the number, the less torque.  This allows you to be careful with delicate fasteners, while unleashing the full power of the drill when you need it!
Turning down the torque can really help you to take care of your projects and protect screw heads.  It’s just another great feature of modern drills that we can be thankful for!


retrieved from url
http://bestdrillguide.com/torque-guide/

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

How to print document from my iPhone or Android phone

What is Print Hammermill

Print Hammermill™ is a mobile printing solution available today on Android and iPhone platforms. Print Hammermill™ offers the best and broadest functionality in the marketplace for free.

What can I print with print Hammermill?

the functionally varies between Androio and Iphones,Iphones will print microsof office documents,images,photos,emails and attacjment,and webs,Android will print all of those plus contact,file browsing,calendar,call log and text messages